STRAWBERRY STRACCIATELLA ICE CREAM.

STRAWBERRY STRACCIATELLA ICE CREAM.
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June 16, 2016

This post was created in partnership with Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker. All opinions are my own.

Heat and heat and heat and rows and rows and rows of soft serve ice cream machines. The streets of Avignon, France were a convection oven, circulating 100º air in and around honking cars, cursing pedestrians, centuries-old building facades. Everything was old, and beautiful, and sweaty. Which is where the ice cream came in. Flavors my twenty year-old brain had never imagined before: licorice, pink grapefruit, bacio, amarena, gianduja, all dispensed from gleaming, golden soft serve machines.

It was the summer between my sophomore and junior years of college, and my friend Julie and I were there to study and attend the Festival D’Avignon—Europe’s biggest theatre and dance festival. In true French fashion, the performers went en grève (on strike) that season, and we were left to our own devices of ice cream eating and ancient city exploration. The days were sticky with a rainbow of melted soft serve and the wilted efforts of a few performers still willing to go on stage.

 

But amidst the heat and the masses of people and the art, there was an intensity of flavor people in Avignon seemed accustomed to that I’d never experienced before. Ripe, fresh tomatoes. Tiny, perfect fraises de bois (forest strawberries). Basil. Anise. These weren’t easy tastes on the palate—nobody in America was even thinking of eating licorice ice cream in 2003. The flavors here were about more than comfort. They were about the experience and the history of the ingredients. Even the soft serve could tell a story.

It’s been eleven years since I was in Europe. The last time, my friends Ben and Elliot and I rented an apartment in Paris up a dark, warm, stale-aired staircase. We locked ourselves out just before we had to go to the airport (I say we, but really it was Elliot’s fault, right Elliot?) and it was left to me to use the necessarily sufficient French I’d learned over the past four years to call a locksmith and get us in. We raced to Charles de Gaulle, breathless and sweaty and full of a sense that anything was possible. I don’t remember which arrondissement we stayed in, or much else besides that feeling of freedom, capability, owning the world.

We graduated six weeks later. Eighteen months later, my mother was diagnosed with cancer. And eighteen months after that, she died. My world became suddenly, necessarily small. Everything seemed terrifying. The thought of leaving the country was daunting, irreconcilable with how powerless I felt. I couldn’t control the way anything went, so why would I consciously put myself so far from the known? I spent the years after that tending to my grief, immured in a world full of the recognizable.

This Sunday is Father’s Day, and the eight year anniversary of my mother’s death. In the past year, my desire to travel beyond the U.S. has begun to return. I can feel myself opening to the possibility, the excitement—a flower slowly unfurling itself toward a sun that’s always been there.

For now, for the past decade, I’ve found ways to celebrate flavor at home: My favorite rich, dense Scharffen Berger chocolate. The summer’s brightest strawberries. Vanilla bean. A touch of balsamic.

I turned to Scharffen Berger to make this strawberry stracciatella because of the chocolate’s subtlety and smoothness—the company was co-founded by a chocolate connoisseur and a winemaker, resulting in a bean-to-bar product that’s exquisitely refined. Drizzled into a cool bath of roasted strawberry ice cream, the melted 70% Cacao Dark Chocolate Baking Bar hardens in perfect, bittersweet streaks.

Like any good trip somewhere beautiful and unknown, this ice cream is complex, luscious, and not overly sweet—the flavors speak for themselves in lovely harmony. Make it yourself, and don’t forget to share on social media, tagging @kaleandcaramel and @scharffenberger.

STRAWBERRY STRACCIATELLA ICE CREAM.

Ingredients
  

  • 1 pound ripe strawberries washed and trimmed
  • 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
  • ¼ teaspoon vanilla bean paste or ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar divided
  • 2 cups heavy whipping cream
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2 egg yolks
  • ½ cup honey
  • 1 pinch sea salt
  • 5 ounces Scharffen Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Baking Bar recommend 60% to 70% cacao chocolate

Instructions
 

  • 24 hours before, place the freezer bowl of your ice cream maker in the freezer to chill.
  • When it’s chilled, completely preheat the oven to 425º. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
  • Halve the strawberries and place in a medium bowl. Toss with balsamic vinegar, vanilla, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Arrange the strawberries, cut side down, on baking sheet, and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar. Bake for 18-20 minutes, until juices begin to caramelize. Remove from oven and cool.
  • While strawberries roast, add cream, milk, yolks, honey, and sea salt into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk to melt honey and combine ingredients, then switch to a silicon spatula. Stir occasionally, scraping down the sides and bottom of the pan, as mixture heats to 170º-175º. At this point, custard mixture should have thickened slightly, enough to coat the back of a metal spoon. Remove from heat.
  • Add 1 cup of custard and all roasted strawberries to a blender and blend just until smooth, with flecks of strawberry and dots of strawberry seeds. Pour into a large bowl and whisk to combine with the remaining custard until uniform in color and texture. Refrigerate until completely chilled, or overnight.
  • Roughly chop the bittersweet chocolate and melt it in the bowl of a double boiler (or a glass bowl nestled into the top of a pot of boiling water). Transfer melted chocolate to a pouring measuring cup.
  • Freeze custard according to manufacturer’s instructions. Pour in the melted chocolate in a thin stream just before it’s finished churning. Chocolate will immediately harden into small bits and streaks. If churning is disrupted by pouring or clumping chocolate, simply transfer some of the churned ice cream into a freezer-proof container and set in freezer while you finish adding chocolate. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-proof container and freeze at least four hours, until set.